Sometimes it can be quite frustrating. Take the guys from Euro Pizza, for example, five tough men who started last year without significant capital in an old ammunition factory in Het HEM (Zaandam) Restaurant Europa. Everyone was full of praise, colleague Joël Broekaert wrote “they are bursting with ideas and just want to do cool shit”. Do cool shit, then you know you’re in the right place. Until the Netherlands went into lockdown in March, the catering industry had to close and to make matters worse, the ferry between Amsterdam Central and Het HEM was taken out of service. Europe had to close, a dream vanished like a fleeting perfume. Don’t give up, the gang of five thought, they still wanted to pay the suppliers and so pizzas were frantically baked. In an old car with a crackling pizza slice on the roof, they traveled through Amsterdam to get their frozen food deep frozen woodfired sourdough pizza’s to wear out.
No frozen pizzas as we know them, cardboard with a thin layer of tomato puree, no, delicious pizzas made from good sourdough dough and special ingredients that you don’t expect one, two, three. It was only a matter of time until a good location was found for this adventure – since the end of summer the five have been sitting in an old garage that they converted into a sleek, black and white, industrial loft with Revolt chairs where you can enjoy delicious pizzas as well as pizzas. can order appetizers and desserts. And, not unimportant, where fine natural wines are served.
Did we say bad luck already? On Wednesday, a day after the MP’s press conference, the door had to be closed, just now that Amsterdammers had found their way to EuroPizza. A few days before, we had eaten so well in two hours – there was already a time slot – that we considered making it a daily order.
It started with toast with raw gurnard with horseradish, boletus with egg yolk and celeriac and savoy cabbage with eel butter and oyster cream, three dishes of today, each with a savory to remember. We had some bread with it, good bread from the Golden Pheasant, and then there was creamy farmer’s butter rolled in powdered cabbage, so delicious. And while David Bowie and Iggy Pop were blasting their zest for life, we could only lament that life never got better. We knew a lot.
As a main course, on the advice of the service, well informed about both food and wine and neatly dressed with a black mouth cap, we took one pizza together: ‘Nduja with sausage (16,-). A pizza of airy dough with spread pork sausage, mozzarella, chard and honey. An anything but cliché pizza and a funny side effect is that the sweetness of the honey did soften it, because it is definitely spicy.
In the meantime we drank Gamay from the Loire and Dolcetto from the Piemonte and decided to have two more desserts before eight o’clock. Simply because we were curious about barley ice cream, which came with a crispy choux and hazelnut praline and fig leaf ice cream with apple and crème suisse. Everything was delicious, taste both familiar and challenging.
Perhaps naively, we weren’t thinking about tomorrow, let alone the press conference three days later. But even then the men did not stop in complaining: Euro Pizza will deliver their frozen pizzas to friendly shops in the city as of today and you can pick them up at their store. The ‘Nduja, the Margeritho with scamorza (smoked cheese) and miso (13,-) or other success numbers.
If we wish anyone a glorious reopening, it would be these five musketeers. Pick up those pizzas and step inside as soon as the weather permits to experience how creative a dinner around and with pizzas can be.
Reviewer and journalist Rock Possel tests a restaurant in and around Amsterdam every week.